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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.